[LINK] "A town with a tale to tell"

[rfmcdonald]

Asia Times' Saransh Sehgal writes about how the people of the Indian border town of Tawang, a town existing in Chinese-claimed territory in the cultural sphere of Tibet populated by non-Tibetans, perceive their identity. They're mostly Indian for most things, it seems.

The indigenous inhabitants of the area are the Monpas, who had always kept a distance from the Tibetans of the plateau, despite sharing religious and cultural values. Inhabitants in their 60s in the area of Tawang have the distinct experience of living under four national flags - British, Tibetan, Chinese and Indian.

Chinese scholars argue that the Monpas' interests would be better safeguarded with China, and that only the Monpas can decide their future. So Monpas perceptions and opinion of India remain important for the future of Tawang.

In the past, Monpas tribes were unhappy subjects of often oppressive Tibetan rulers. Today, the fortunes are reversed - Tibetan rulers are now viewed as persecuted and many have had to flee the country - while Monpas are free citizens of India. It seems few want to live under Chinese or Tibetan rule, though they all revere the Dalai Lama as their religious leader.

[. . .]

Many residents in Tawang say incidents such as last year's crackdown in Tibet have only hardened their resolve to protect their culture and religion. "We hear about the atrocities in Tibet, the repression they [China] are carrying out," said R Neema, a local doctor. "But Tawang will try to sustain what China seeks to destroy in Tibet."

When asked whether he thought Tawang should be a part of greater Tibet that enjoys greater autonomy, Neema said that Tawang was now India's region, adding, "It is more Tibetan in culture and nature here in a free country than Tibet itself under Chinese domination."

However, some Monpas feel neglected by the Indian government in terms of development. They also believe that their tribal identity has been deliberately diluted. Seeing what China has achieved across the McMahon Line has made them feel they are on the wrong side of geography.

Lamho, who lives in Tawang town, said, "All we hear is developments on the other side of the border, we feel bad at heart, as if our [Indian] government is sleeping, New Delhi should do something. It would not only develop us but also keep the Chinese away".