[ISL] "Seychelles: A World Apart"

[rfmcdonald]

The Indian Ocean island nation of the Seychelles, a French-settled but later British-ruled archipelago in the Indian Ocean off the East African coast, is the subject of Carl Haub's latest post at the Population Reference Bureau's blog. I last posted about the Seychelles in 2005, with a post on efforts to promote Seychelllois Creole on the Internet and in public life and to so avoid the language's displacement by more prestigious English and French. Haub's post is an in-depth exploration of the island nation's insularity, of the isolation that at once makes life difficult for Seychellois through the inflated cost of imports and helps promote the island's economy through the insular isolation of the inhabitants' environment.

The country has a fascinating history. Vasco da Gama was the first European visitor in 1502 but the island remained uninhabited until 1756 when the French first laid claim. It did not become a truly viable colony until the 1790s. Prior to that, it is said to have served as a hiding place for the booty of pirates from Madagascar, such as “la Buse.” Even today, treasure hunters obtain permission to dig for probably imagined riches. French dominion was rather short and the British took over in 1810, although French landowners were allowed to retain their holdings. But much of French culture remains, especially the local language. Seychelles was initially ruled by the British from their colony of Mauritius, hence the designation of the money as rupee. The British conducted a campaign against the Indian Ocean slave trade. Freed slaves taken from slave ships were often brought to Seychelles, forming a large part of the original settlers. But slave ownership was still allowed and the practice continued until made illegal in 1835.

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The August 2010 Census reported a preliminary population of 88,311, up from the adjusted 2002 Census count of 81,755. The rate of natural increase in 2009 was 1.0 percent. Net immigration is most likely negligible although difficult to measure since Seychellois who live abroad often have two passports. The total fertility is low for a developing country, averaging 2.3 children per woman for the 2006-2009 period. Life expectancy at birth is 73 years and infant mortality is 11 infant deaths per 1,000 live births in the same period although life expectancy has not risen appreciably for many years.

The country scores very high on many socioeconomic measures, such as education, health, and housing and has already achieved most UN Millennium Development goals. A visitor’s impression is one of a country with many developed country amenities. Car ownership is on the rise with 9,104 cars registered in 2007, or about one for every three households. There is now even the semblance of a rush hour from new developments south of Victoria. Younger Seychellois appreciate the new modern townhouse development but there is also some reluctance to cut oneself off from more traditional village family relationships.

Life can be an economic struggle as virtually all goods must be imported. A visit to the government supermarket in Victoria, revealed large numbers of recently-received items, such as hundreds of bottles of ketchup. Agriculture is almost non-existent due to the terrain. Out 42,000 employment in 2009, only 738 were employed in agriculture, forestry, and fishing. (The 2010 Census reported a higher level of employment than previously estimated at 48,000.) In 2009, the International Monetary Fund required the Seychelles rupee to float on the open market, raising the exchange rate to a more realistic 17 Seychelles rupees from the previous seven. While it created financial hardships, the move was necessary and beneficial and the all-important exchange rate has improved to 12 rupees to the U.S. dollar at this writing. Nonetheless, by 2009, prices for many food items had doubled since 2007 while incomes rose by only 50 percent.

About 25 percent of national income comes from tourism, less than figures often quoted. There is some industry on Mahe, such as Indian Ocean Tuna, called the second-largest tuna processing facility in the world, although it employs a good deal of foreign labor. Each town around Mahe has its own general store, called a supermarket, but these are nearly all run by Indians, primarily from the state of Tamil Nadu. A recently-built Hindu temple, built in the South Indian style, is now prominent in Victoria. The large majority of the population, 87 percent, is Roman Catholic, 7 percent Anglican, with the rest about evenly divided among Hindu, Muslim, Buddhism, and Baha’i. Seychellois are known as avid churchgoers. Many towns have churches which seem unusually large for their size. A recently-built Hindu temple, built in the South Indian tower style, is now prominent in Victoria and the country’s first mosque has been built.