Writing in the Toronto Star, Robbie Corey-Boulet describes how the Abidjan, the cosmopolitan capital of the West African state of Côte d'Ivoire, has become a destination for non-heterosexuals from across the region. Things apparently aren't very good, but at least they aren't terribly bad.
Arthur Njel, a professional dancer, was arrested at age 18 and again at age 20 on allegations related to homosexuality, which can fetch up to five years in prison in his native Cameroon.
[. . . W]hen he crossed the border into neighbouring Nigeria to perform at a concert two years ago, Njel decided he was done — at least for now — with his home country. Travelling by road without much money or the proper paperwork, he managed to reach Abidjan, the dynamic economic capital of Ivory Coast, which stands out in West Africa for the relative freedom it affords sexual minorities.
He wasn’t the first. Claver Toure, executive director of the gay and lesbian group Alternative Côte d’Ivoire, said his organization has helped roughly 30 people settle in the country over the past two years. Still more have turned to other organizations or relied on personal networks for help, he said, contributing to an influx of gay West Africans.
“Abidjan deserves its reputation as being a gay capital,” Toure said in an interview at the headquarters for Alternative, which focuses on advocacy and promoting safe-sex practices.
“The majority who come here, maybe they’re not persecuted personally, but the laws of their country condemn them. They may not have the means to get to Europe to live as freely as they want, but they see the comparison between their country and Abidjan and decide to come here.”
Ivory Coast’s penal code does not explicitly outlaw homosexuality, setting the country apart from most of its neighbours. (Lawmakers in Nigeria and Liberia are currently considering legislation that would strengthen existing anti-gay legislation, broadening the list of related offences and imposing longer prison terms.)
Instead of ignoring their gay populations or trying to brand homosexuality as a western import, Toure said Ivorian officials actively engage with groups like Alternative, inviting them to policy conferences and seeking their input.
And then there is the nightlife, which includes a popular gay bar in addition to a handful of gay-friendly establishments.