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AFP examines the dwindling community of Eurasians, descendants of centuries-old Portuguese settlements, concentrated in the Malaysian port city of Malacca and a community threatened by assimilation..

George Paul Overee, a sprightly 78-year-old museum guide, greets newcomers with a cheerful "Bom dia" and listens to Portuguese folk music as he sits in his village square.

But like most of the Malaysian Portuguese community in the port city of Malacca, a living legacy of long-gone colonial days, he has never set foot in the country from whence his forefathers journeyed some 500 years ago.

As one of the oldest members of the community, he is intent on preserving this fascinating enclave, with its unique language and traditions, against the pressures of modernisation.

"My children have long left this place. I see my grandchildren every once in a while," Overee said as he guided a group of Chinese tourists through the tiny museum at Malacca's Portuguese settlement.

"But I will never accept that the people in this village will ever forget their culture. It should begin in the family, start speaking the language at home to the young and cultivate the culture," he said.

The Portuguese village, a strip of coastal land overlooking the Malacca Strait, is a hive of activity as community members mingle in the central square, and entertain scores of tourists during the holiday season.

"Tourists are curious about us and there are also many Portuguese who come by to visit and keep in touch with us," Overee said proudly as he played folk music from a CD sent by a tourist from Lisbon.

[. . .]

"Only the very old and the very young remain here and the working people are mostly away seeking better paid jobs in big cities like Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, and even in Australia," said the village headman Peter Gomez.

"We make it a point to keep the festivals every year so that they have an opportunity to get recharged with their culture and the language," he said.

"We are afraid that the culture and the heritage may disappear altogether."
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Portuguese rule in Angola ended very badly. Portugal is to Angola what France is to Algeria, or Britain to Ireland, that is to say, the colonizer left to deal with the colonized. The main difference is that Portugal-Angola have shared a rather more traumatic mutual history. Imagine, for comparison's sake, that the French war in Algeria was waged not by the reasonably democratic Fourth Republic but rather by a repressive right-wing fascist dictatorship that had mishandled things to the point that a goodly chunk of the French population had emigrated, and that the insane unwinnable war only ended with a successful left-wing coup by elements of the military that promptly segued into a minor years-long revolution. Portuguese disengagement, as chronicled by Ryszard Kapuscinski in his Another Day of Life, remains a case study of how not to decolonize.

At least Portugal's disengagement from Angola was mercifully quick for the Portuguese. Angola, in the meantime, was left with a three-way civil war that killed hundreds of thousands of people, sowed so many landmines as to make great swathes of the country uninhabitable, and made the country the poorest in the world. The dead remain dead and the landmines remain as devillishly impossible to extract as ever. The economy is booming, though, oil exports propelling an economy projected to grow by 27.9% in 2006. If Angola's oil reserves prove as plentiful as some people hope, Angola's growing population of 11 million people might manage to make it to a better future, assuming as always that the rampant corruption and theft of the country doesn't dissipate everything.

Now, thirty-one years after it left, Portugal is returning to its former colony. Humanitarian issues aren't motivating this reengagement, though Portugal is sending school teachers to bolster a fragile Angolan educational system. Cultural issues play a role, thanks to the two countries' membership in the Community of Portuguese Speaking Countries and the continuing growth of Angolan Portuguese but not much of a role. The attractive economics of Angolan oil and Portugal's flagging economy, rather, justified the recent visit of Portuguese Prime Minister José Sócrates to Angola, leading a team of businessmen ready to sign contracts on the model of Jean Chrétien's Team Canada government-backed trade missions. If Angola is booming, then Portugal is stagnating, a multi-year recession leaving Portuguese companies that had prospered in the growth years of the 1990s stranded. Brazil has its own domestic champions; Angola, now, not nearly so much.

The result is an increasing Portuguese entanglement in the affairs of its largest former African colony. Now, almost half of the turnover of Portuguese construction company Soares da Costa comes from Angola, while Portuguese banks are making a nice profit thanks to their entrenchment on the ground in a country that really didn't have a modern banking system. There is even talk of a new talk of a Portuguese-Angolan strategic partnership. In the Lusophone world, Portugal is always necessarily going to remain in second place behind the subcontinental giant of Brazil, with its trillion-dollar economy and large Angolan-origin population and overwhelming cultural influence. There's still some niches for Portugal, though, and quickly modernizing and Lusophonizing Angola isn't likely to object. Why bother when there's so much cash floating around?
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